quick getaway to Tokyo

shrine in Kamakura, Japan

Let me start by saying we get it now.  Everyone loves Japan.  Here in Singapore it's a popular vacation destination for locals and expats alike, and nobody has a bad thing to say, except maybe that it can be pricey.  So we finally got our act together and booked a trip. The kids had a week off in October and after much talk and dilly-dallying, I saw a great deal on flights with Delta - US$340 round trip Singapore-Tokyo-Singapore. The catch?  It was only Monday-Friday.  Hmmmm.  It's a 7 hour flight but only one hour time difference, so after some thought we decided to go for it.  Cannot resist a deal.  Originally we had figured we would do the typical Tokyo-bullet train to Kyoto-fly back from Kyoto trip, about 9 days, but that would have been much more expensive so we prepared for our Tokyo-only trip.

Second issue - hotel.  Hotels are expensive in Tokyo, and our family of 5 would likely need 2 rooms.  We decided to use airbnb and it was a lifesaver.  We booked a studio apartment in the Shibuya area of Tokyo for around $200/night.  It was terrific.  Small but in a great location, it reminded me of a nice doorman building in NYC.

Here are the basics of the trip:

Day one - fly Singapore-Tokyo, arrive and walk around Shibuya, have ramen for dinner
Day two - Tokyo tower, sushi lunch, park, Harujuku shrine and walk around
Day three - National garden in Shinjuku, Joypolis indoor amusement park in Odaiben, sushi dinner
Day four - day trip to Kamakura, pop culture shopping in Nakano
Day five - morning walk around including Shibuya and yoyongi park, Harujuku, curry udon lunch then depart for Singapore

TOTALLY WORTH IT!!


Practicalities:

getting to Tokyo:
There are 2 options - limo bus and train.  Since we have a carsick-prone child it was a no-brainer for us.  Upon arriving in Narita airport, which is over an hour from Tokyo, we bought round trip tickets on the Narita express train for 4,000 yen per person (about $40).  Sounds like a lot - about $100 per trip for the five of us, but a taxi would have been more than double that.  So away we went on the train which was comfy, had a bathroom, etc.

The train should have gone straight to our station - Shibuya - but there was an issue so we had to change at Shinagawa to another train line.  This was not what we had planned and was crowded and schleppy but we survived and got to Shibuya easily.  By not it was almost 5:30 and in Tokyo that means dusk.  Shame to get there with no daylight left but that's life.

We settled in to our apartment.  By now everyone was tired and starving - we had been up since 4.  We were trying to get in touch with a friend of ours from Singapore who was in Tokyo and had lived in Japan.  Walking around our neighborhood we, no joke, ran into him.  whaaaat?  I know - crazy - so there we were and he gave us a great walking tour of Shibuya.  We had dinner at a ramen noodle place where you order from the machine outside and give the guy inside your ticket.  It was great.

Day 2 we were lucky to meet up with a family I know that has been living in Tokyo for a few years.  We saw the Tokyo tower - an imitation of the eiffel tower but bigger - and went all the way up.  Then went to their fave sushi place where the kids proceeded to order plates and plates of sushi.  Walked around the Roppongi neighborhood, and saw a typical park where the kids played in a playground for a while (essential for happy kids on vacation - ok not essential but highly recommended to factor in run around time each day).

viewing window at Tokyo tower

Next we took the train to the Harajuku area.  This is an area known for Japanese pop culture ,and happens to be also next to a gorgeous shrine so two birds with one stone.  After checking out the shrine until it closed we walked down the crowded main drag, a pedestrian street with tons of shops reminiscent of the east village in New York.  We ended up walking back to our apartment, about a 20 minute walk.

Harajuku pedestrian street

sushi - Shibuya, Tokyo

Day 3 - National Garden & Joypolis indoor amusement park

on Wednesday we had planned to meet up with a Japanese friend of ours and her daughter (who live in Singapore but were also in Tokyo) and visit Kamakura, ancient capital of Japan. She asked if we could switch it to Thursday so we had Wednesday to ourselves.  What to do what to do.... we decided to visit a garden in the morning and dedicate the afternoon to the kids.  After much research we decided to take the kids to Joypolis, an indoor amusement park by Sega.  We took the train there to the area of town called Odaiben, basically an uninteresting island that seems to be one big mall, and the kids were in heaven playing virtual games and going on rides for 4+ hours.  We will be receiving 

our parents of the year award any day now.

National garden - yes that looks like the empire state building

Day 4 - Kamakura

Kamakura is a day trip from Tokyo - about an hour away, it was the capital of Japan long ago.  Today it has a high concentration of temples and shrines.  Some people rent bicycles to get around - we tried that but they have no kid bikes and no bikes with a child seat so that was a no-go.  Luckily for us, we had our Japanese friend with us so she helped navigate and since we had her language skills we were able to get an all day bus pass for about $5 each to get around from temple to temple.  

The day in Kamakura was amazing and a perfect contrast to the modern feel of Tokyo.  The highlight was the bamboo forest behind one of the temples:

40+ foot high bronze buddha from the 13th century - has survived 2 major earthquakes!!

women in traditional dress; Kamakura

Bamboo forest - Kamakura, Japan.  just beautiful.

women in traditional dress at shrine in Kamakura

Before we knew it it was our last day in Tokyo - or rather our last half day.  We had until just after lunch before heading to the airport.  We spent the day walking around and ended up at the Yoyogi park bordering Shibuya and Harajuku.  Then we saw Harajuku again - this time by day - and took the train back to Shibuya.  Had some curry udon on our street and then off we went.

One experience I will share that was stressful the last day had to do with the train back to the airport.  Upon arrival we had bought round trip tickets to and from Tokyo.  The thing is you are supposed to go back to the ticket office for Japan Rail and get assigned seats for the train before boarding - at least this is recommended.  We got the the station with time but not enough time and of course there was a long line at the ticket counter.  We quickly realized we were not going to make the train we hoped to catch and maybe not the next one either.  While my husband waited I went to the information counter and the girl said that we can get on the train and take seats but if somebody came with that seat assigned to them we had to move.  We ended up pretty much sprinting through the station, arriving at the platform with about a minute to spare and getting seats.  Unnecessary stress; had we known that we can just sit we would never have waited in the line.

All in all our family of five enjoyed every second of our trip to Tokyo.  We can't wait to go back to Japan!

the planning of a trip.... Tokyo

Two concepts that usually do not go together - "Tokyo" and "good deal".  We are attempting to combine the two.

Here's the thing.... for me, living in Singapore presents conflicting opportunities.  On the one hand we are here, as are many foreigners I suppose, to work and save some money.  And we do work and we are able to save probably more than we would in the U.S.  So that's great.  And all while having a pretty good quality of life - live-in help, lots of going out to eat, etc.  Now comes the conflicting part... living here so far from home we want to take advantage and see Asia.  Of course even though we get to see such amazing places for such a low cost from Singapore, at the end of the day trips cost money, and with a family of five usually more than you think.  And that's not even counting the trips we take home to see our families.

Therein lies the conundrum.... spend on travel vs. save for tomorrow

Where does that leave me?  Oh yes - Tokyo - the children have a week off from school in October.  We have been discussing going to Japan during this week for the past few months but, being the slackers that we are, we did not actually buy tickets.  I researched Tokyo, Kyoto, the bullet train, what to see, etc.  The original plan was to see both Tokyo and Kyoto, taking the famous bullet train one or both ways.  This trip would be around 7-8 days total.  We did not buy tickets, and as time went on the tickets got a little pricier and we realized that we were looking at an expensive trip.  Lodging in Japan is extremely expensive.

So we started looking at other destinations, still not booking of course.  Then we see a sick deal - round trip Singapore-Tokyo on Delta for US$340 per person.  Usually it's almost double that.   The flight is 7 hours.  The catch? It's leaving on a Monday and returning on a Friday.  Is it too crazy?  Is it worth it?  My husband and I discussed, consulted with some people who know Japan and decided to go for it.  We figured (a) since there is no jet lag really - only a 2 hour time difference - although it's a long flight it's not so difficult and (b) it's way fewer nights of hotel to pay for - only 4 instead of 7.

Now we are in the anticipation/planning phase of the trip - tickets booked and looking for where to stay. We are likely going to stay with airbnb since hotels are so off-the-charts pricey.

I'll post about how the trip went.  Really looking forward to it, and the kids are superexcited.

View from the bus

This past weekend was the formula1 car race in Singapore.  I did not attend,  though I was tempted to go see Bon Jovi.  The most significant impact the F1 had on my little life was the fact that it was impossible to get a taxi home from work on Friday,  and so after 45 minutes of trying and failing with the app I resigned myself to take the free company shuttle. .. to the train. .. to a bus.  Not the way I had hoped to start the weekend.

In this post I thought I would share some of the things I see from the second level of the bus on that last stretch. ...

Brand new public housing in one of the hottest areas of Singapore

Art deco old public housing right across from the new one.  Check out the Singapore flags.  Patriotism!



More cool art deco apts with the famous Tiong Bahru market in the background.  You can see the benches for residents to sit and catch up.  

There is construction all over Singapore. .. notice the path for pedestrians carefully created.  Always. 

Gorgeous Chinese temple

A bit blurred but this is my closest food center.

The Singapore river

My kids' fave pizza place

Store at the mall walking distance from my apartment

And finally the bus stop is across from this very 70's looking Baptist Church. ..Christianity is alive and well and flourishing here in Singapore. 

I finally ordered the fish head curry! Another Peranakan experience.

Now I have been to three Peranakan restaurants.  Last Friday I had the pleasure of a surprise day off from work so I met my husband for lunch in Tiong Bahru, probably almost everyone's favorite neighborhood in Singapore.  Lunch followed by a pedicure sounded just about right.

The restaurant is called House of Peranakan - located right next to the  monkey temple, down the street from the famous Tiong Bahru market.  Although it was not my favorite of the three restaurants of this genre I have tried so far, it did have its charm and all in all we both enjoyed the meal.

I'll go to the highlights - - I have been meaning to try fish head curry for so long, so I decided today is the day.  I ordered that and my husband got the ribs in a spicy bbq-esque sauce.  The menu at these restaurants tends to be rather porky - not my bag at all but I always find something.

For dessert I was in heaven.  I'm a big fan of anything coconut, so Singapore is perfect for me.  And I'm a sucker for gula melaka, which is a delicious sweet syrup popular in Malaysia and Singapore.  It is made from the sap of a sago, coconut, or date palm tree.  It has some of the bitterness of a good brown sugar and is essential to so many desserts here.  When I saw a dessert with both coconut ice cream and gula melaka I was sold.

the restaurant

Curry Fish Head?  Don't mind if I do!!

Does not look like a head but it was.  Sauce is amazing and okra and eggplant really good.

according to my husband the carnivore these ribs were delicious and spicy.

see?  more meat than you think in the fish head.

I had the second one.  Yummy Gula Melaka!!!

the dessert - so so so good.

meal including tip about US $58

this is the way the charming sidewalks look in Tiong Bahru - cool tiles and protection from the strong sun and rain.



All around Tiong Bahru and other historic areas of Singapore there are heritage tral signs describing significant aspects of the neighborhood. 

Yes I realize I live in Asia...my morning commute today

My morning commute is, among other things,  early and nervewracking. It's common in Singapore, when the workplace is in a location that is not convenient for public transportation,  for the company to provide at a minimum shuttles from relatively cental locations and,  if you're lucky,  vouchers for taxis.  I'm not so lucky.

For over a year I would get to the shuttle that,  although convenient,  was a pain to get to.  By pain I mean one infrequent public bus followed by a walk around the corner and 2 trains.  Then last summer great news. .. they were adding one shuttle to a subway stop not too far from my apartment.  Great!  The catch?  Only one that leaves at 6:50 a.m. That is my current morning ride.  I take the infrequent public bus around 8 minutes, hop off and right there catch the shuttle.  30 minutes later and I'm at work on the western edge of Singapore.

Today,  however,  I cut it too close.  Using my handy dandy app I saw from my apartment at 6:15 that the bus was coming in 7 minutes or 23 minutes.   I opt for the latter. This way I don't have to wait for 15+ minutes standing in the dark and, more importantly,  I get to see my kids.  At least wake them up. Which I did.

I know I'm cutting it close and,  had I not had the slowest,  most careful bus driver ever,  I would have made it but alas... as I arrived to the stop at 6:50 on the dot I saw the work shuttle pull out into the dawn light  NOOOOOO!

So onto the subway to somewhat replicate my commute of days past.  I get a seat and realize that of the seven people sitting in my area and the seven across from me, I am the only woman and the only non-Asian. Yes I realize I am in Asia but in Singapore usually there are westerners on transportation (case in point the bus).

By the time I got off the train around 20 minutes later, there were 3 other women in my little section.  And of the 14 people at least 7 were sleeping.  Unbelievable.  But that's another topic.

The subway system in Singapore.  You tap a card on the way in and tap on the way out. Price depends on distance with discounts for kids and seniors.  Travel across half the country. .. about 35 minutes. .. costs about $ US 1.50.  I have a credit card that works for the transport. .. automatically adds money in increments. 

After tapping out at Jurong East must walk across a walkway to the bus pickup area.  I should get a fitbit.

Snack?

Very typical Singapore... somebody selling tissues. ..30 cents a pack. ..

on the ramp approaching the chaotic bus pickup area

Finally at work. .. about 30 minutes later than had I caught the first shuttle by my house but that's ok.

Thankfully I was listening to This American Life which made it all ok.

And upon arriving at work. .. they have my favorite noodle soup this morning.  There's hope!

The food of Singapore-a couple of noodle soups

When I first moved to Singapore I thought it was so strange that people ate noodles in the morning.  I started working full time 4 months after arriving here, and I would walk through the cafeteria at work, look at the noodle dishes and just figure out something else to eat, or nothing at all.  Now a couple of years into it I love noodles in the morning (or anytime)!  Like everything else here, the food is a perfect combination of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Indonesian dishes.  The day I no longer call Singapore home the food may be the thing I miss most of all.

I will describe 2 soups that are common here and that I just love: Laksa and Mee Siam.
I doubt any Singaporean would call them soups - they would say they are noodles with gravy. Trust me, they are soups.

First Mee Siam, which I think has become my favorite.  It is a Malay noodle dish served dry or in soup, or as they say in Singapore, "gravy" (soooo not gravy.  It is most definitely, for the American palate, soup).  This dish is a combination of sweet, sour and spicy.  The thin thin rice noodles are served in a tamarind broth with sprouts, hard boiled egg, fermented soy beans,  cubes of tofu, sprouts and, in the fancier versions, a couple of pieces of boiled shrimp.  The tamarind is key to the color and taste, and of course the flavors include sambal, chili, garlic  and onion and it's always accompanied by chives and half a teeny tiny lime.  The taste combo is strange at first but trust me it grows on you.  It is served any time of day but often by late afternoon when you try to order, the person behind the counter will say "finished already".  I have it for breakfast whenever I can.  Tomorrow is the day they have mee siam at my work for breakfast.  I'm beyond excited.  Here are some pix of the dish.  It's one of the flavors that I'm pretty sure I will not have once I leave southeast Asia.  so so sad.

Sunday morning breakfast out - me, my mee siam, iced tea and a kindle.  

mee siam closeup

this is a fancy one - see the shrimps?  

Now no discussion of noodle dishes in Singapore would be complete without Laksa.  This is one of the national dishes of Singapore.  It is a coconut milk-based spicy soup with rice noodles and shrimp. At first it looks like it will taste like the Thai soup tom kha kai.  Not at all - it is totally different.  It almost always has slices of fish cake and hunks of tofu, as well as half a hard boiled egg.  As with the above soup, the better versions have boiled shrimp but I have had many many respectable bowls of laksa where the shrimp is not present like the ones in the pix below.  It's seriously an amazing spicy, curry, coconutty flavor that I also doubt I will enjoy once I am not a resident of this lovely country.  

laksa

laksa

So glad tomorrow is Mee Siam day at work!!

week one of the new school - 75% commute success rate

Week one of the new campus came and went.  The commute is.... as I told my mom, "not wonderful, not terrible."  It's far.  My kids go on the public bus for around 8 minutes, then a subway (well, a train as it goes above ground most of the way) for 35 minutes, then the school provides a shuttle that is only 5 minutes but the kicker is that there can be quite a line for that shuttle.  annoying.

this is a map of the Singapore train system - the kids get the train at Outram  (middle green line) and get off at Pasir Ris.  The closest station to my work is Joo Koon.  And it's not even that close. There was one day where I left work and took a cab to Joo Koon station then coordinated and met the kids and Outran Park.  So as a family we did the entire east west line.  

Days one and two I took the kids and picked them up using the planes, trains, automobiles system.  Took about 6 hours out of my day each day by the time I took them to their classes and waited for the teachers but I needed to see how the system worked.  Day 3 I was back to work and the kids did the commute with the maid.  She doesn't take them all the way to school.  She leaves them/gets them at the shuttle stop at the train station.  If my oldest son didn't have a phone to stay in touch I could not handle this situation.

So all went pretty ok until day 4 when... middle child has a bellyache in the morning.  (note:  he is the kind of kid who often has bellyaches in the morning).  By now I am already at work.  My husband is home with the kids and the maid.   We have to make a decision.  The decision was... middle child stays home from school.  My husband stayed with him while the maid took the kids and came back.  Not an ideal situation at all.  And to get home I couldn't have the possibly sick child accompany to go get them, so the other 2 took a taxi home - 30 minutes, $26.  Hence the 25% success rate week one.

It's a stressful situation.  We may very well end up putting them on the (insanely expensive) bus.  After one month we will have a family meeting and make the decision.

Difference between school bus and crazy commute?  My kids leave at around 7:25.  Bus picks up at at 7:45.  Not a huge diff.  But in the pm the bus gets here at around 4:15/4:20.  My kids?  around 5.  that's a big diff.

Good news is the school looks great and the kids are happy.  That's the important thing.  Here are some pix:

the train stop Pasir Ris by the school

the kids walking on the covered walkway (Singapore thinks of everything) from the shuttle stop to the train station

sideways pic but this is the inside of the school shuttle.  very nice bus.

escalators going from the atrium up to the elementary school

Now there is one benefit to the crazy commute - this being Singapore there is really fun food at the train station.  Hard to resist after a long day of school even if it adds a few minutes to the way home!

Umi Sushi is the boys' favorite "takeaway" sushi place in Singapore.

this place made us want to go to Taiwan just to eat the street food.

this crispy chicken from the Taiwanese street snacks is soooo amazing! it's a ginormous flattened chicken breast, fried of course and they cut it with scissors.